Author Archives: Victoriano Saldi

About Victoriano Saldi

My names Victoriano and I write about issues related to the construction industry and SEO related topics. Email me at: victoriano@moxieseoseattle.com

Restoration of Old Wood | Making the Right Decision on Appearance

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The 100 Year old Trellis


100 Year old Trellis Seattle
The following question was recently asked by a potential client on restoring a 100 plus year old cedar trellis and it made me think of  the best way to answer him. In this post I will be discussing some problems and issues you might face in deciding whether to restore your wood project.

I have included the actual E-mail with some edits to make it easier to understand as well as some photos for clarification and a wee bit of redesign on the layout…. for appearances’ sake ! Hopefully this exchange helps you in deciding what the result of a restoration would look like and what the challenges are in achieving a client’s desired look as well as limitations on just what a restoration can do. 


In your opinion, would the end result of your restoration produce a renewed natural look to the cedar?

 

We could get the trellis to look like it was installed yesterday. We could also make it look completely natural. Unfortunately the problem with that process is as follows:

Cedar is a porous semi moderate softwood. It can not be sealed. It depends on the pores it possesses naturally to soak in and let out moisture. I mention this because the longest lasting option in making wood look natural are all polyurethane based clear coats that seal the wood.

 

Softwoods and Hardwoods and Why it Matters 

wood pore differences hardwood v softwood

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Cedar pores are larger,spread out farther and dispersed to keep and release moisture. Hardwood pores are tighter, closer and more numerous. Cedar must breathe and have the ability to release moisture because its pore system is much larger and spread out then the hardwood .

The best application for cedar is an oil based semi-transparent stain. The best option in choosing a color would be to go as rich and unnatural as possible with the understanding that the color will fade out, as all do. By going darker you are prolonging the maintenance schedule.

It is also easier to keep up a darker color, because maintenance would consist of lightly reapplying as opposed to doing a whole restoration from start to finish to keep the cedar in top shape, appearance wise. For examples sake, this quote from the Cedar bureau, discusses a deck, but the type of lumber is the same and the process is the same: 

 From the Cedar Bureau:


Decks should never be allowed to weather before finishing.The simplest, but most labor-intensive, finish to keep up on a cedar deck is a water-repellent preservative, which may have to be applied annually. The next easiest is a semi-transparent oil-based stain. Both types of finishes are extremely effective in stopping the absorption of water and are recommended

 

Decisions on Appearance and Why we Don’t Get Involved 

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A water repellant preservative is essentially a clear coat that reflects water with no pigment in it. A semi-transparent oil based stain is an oil with pigment added to it. The differences in maintenance and longevity between an oil and a water repellant preservative are striking. I’ve attached a handy video to help explain it better. 

As a professional my job is to recommend the best option based on experience and to preserve and protect your project, while providing the most cost-effective option  . The final decision on appearance, however, is the clients.

I may like a purple deck with green stripes, you may think me a circus clown. I leave the decision on color to the client for that reason.

What I can do is pick up to ( 3 ) samples to show you what you might get after the restoration is done. To further your understanding of what the trellis might look like after a restoration with a semi transparent stain I have attached a visual aide :

 

 


Installing Roof Anchors

Rope grab connected to a Tower Hook.

Ryan F. from PWNG Restoring a Cedar Roof Using D-rings and Rope Grabs


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When working on roofs safety is always a serious concern. Osha has listed 6858 fall related deaths between 1992 and 2010. I’m going to throw out a number right quick and I am asking you to repeat it with me. 360. 360.

That is the number of fatalities this year will have from fall related injuries. Yes thats right. The year isnt even over and we can tally the number of people who wont be coming home to a loved one, a child or spouse.

 never get up on a roof without the proper safety equipment and never try installing something you aren’t familiar with. 

The leading causes of private sector worker deaths (excluding highway collisions) in the construction industry were falls, followed by struck by object, electrocution, and caught-in/between. These “Fatal Four” were responsible for more than half (64.2%) the construction worker deaths in 2015, BLS reports.

Roof anchors are part of any roof cleaner’s arsenal. Without knowing how to install them properly you can cause leaks in a home and very real injuries to the person hooking off. In this post we will be addressing how to safely, quickly and correctly install a permanent double-d roof anchor.  The procedure consists of 4 steps:

  1. Finding a roof rafter
  2. Removing the shingles.
  3. Installing the roof anchor
  4. Replacing the roof shingles.

PICK WHERE YOU WANT TO INSTALL ROOF ANCHOR 

For a roof anchor to do its job it must be installed into a roof rafter. Finding a roof rafter without tearing off a large area of shingles can be tricky. We use (2) methods to find a rafter:

  1. Knocking: This can be something only someone with experience can do, if you have a good ear you can hear the difference in the banging of your hammer off of the roof shingles. Find a spot that doesn’t sound hollow and mark the area.
  2. Follow the roof rafter from the soffit area. This method works better with someone on the ground directing the person installing roof anchor to a general area they should begin removing the shingles.

REMOVE THE SHINGLES 

Depending on what type of roofing you are removing different tools are used. For cedar roofs a Dasco shingle ripper is a great tool to have.  Carefully remove the shingles and set them aside for after the installation of the roof anchor.

INSTALL THE ANCHOR 

After the shingles have been removed and you are down to the level of roofing paper, install the roof anchor with the provided screws or nails. We prefer to use a double D-ring roof anchor to allow its use on both sides of the roof.  Make sure to nail or screw directly into the roof ridge.

REPLACE THE SHINGLES 

Once you’ve installed the roof anchor, replace the roofing shingles you previously removed. Henrys 208 roof caulking is our choice for filling holes, caused by removing the shingles. Make sure everything is replaced correctly and there are no intrusions into the roofing area that can cause a leak.

When working on roofs safety is always a serious concern, never get up on a roof without the proper safety equipment and never try installing something you aren’t familiar with. Carefully read the instructions on your roofing anchors and follow our guideline for the best practices to use when installing roof anchors.